The magic of deep-fried onion rings: From Kirby’s Pig Stand to A&W

A&W is credited for popularizing onion rings after adding them to their menu in the 1960s. I make my own contribution to their continued popularity here in Thompson, Manitoba many a Wednesday evening while stopping by my local A&W for a $5.25 order of onion rings on my way between the University College of the North (UCN) Thompson campus library and Quality Inn & Suites Thompson. I could call it a pandemic takeout indulgence perhaps except for the fact I’ve been doing it since around 2015.

Roy Allen and Frank Wright, founders of A&W Restaurants, were very likely the first true hamburger franchisers, selling franchises in California way back in 1921. In 1956, the first A&W drive-in restaurant in Canada opened on Portage Avenue right in Winnipeg.

It wasn’t long after A&W added onion rings to their menu in the 1960s that I discovered them, thanks to my late Uncle Bob Barker, who lived in Crown Point, Indiana at the time, and introduced me to onion rings on a visit, with my Aunt Joan, and cousins Lynne and Bob, to our home in Oshawa, Ontario circa 1970. I was about 13 at the time. Uncle Bob didn’t buy our onion rings at A&W, but rather at a food truck in Lakeview Park in the south end of Oshawa on the north shore of Lake Ontario. I’ve loved them ever since

I wrote back in September 2014 here: “It is, of course, not fashionable in 2014 to offer praise of any kind for fast food. Let’s put that on our table here as a given right away. But what a satiating trip down memory lane, admittedly as guilty pleasure, it can be to recall those more modest ghosts of hamburger joints past.” Almost three years later in March 2017, I would also write here in a post headlined, “The Accidental Lowbrow Fast Food Blogger” that back in 2014, I’d never have guessed some 80,000 views and 2½ years later, how often I’d have written about food, especially fast food joints and other greasy spoons in Canada and the United States. I’m not quite sure what I thought I was going to be writing about, but I don’t remember food being on my composing radar for blog posts. Premillennial dispensationalism? The Rapture? Young Earth Creationism? Spiritual Warfare? Petrus Romanus? Prophecy of St. Malachy or Prophecy of the Popes? Any and all things Catholic? Sure, all of these and more, some pretty arcane and from the fringe of the respectable-thinking universe. But food?

An onion ring is a form of appetizer or side dish commonly found in the United States, Canada, United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and some parts of Asia, mainland Europe, and Latin America. They generally consist of a cross-sectional “ring” of onion (the circular structure of which lends itself well to this method of preparation) dipped in batter or bread crumbs and then deep fried; a variant is made with onion paste. While typically served as a side dish, onion rings are often eaten by themselves. The cooking process decomposes propanethial oxide in the onion into the sweet-smelling and tasting bispropenyl disulfide, responsible for the slightly sweet taste of onion rings.

The exact origins of deep-fried onion rings are unknown. A recipe called “Fried Onions with Parmesan Cheese” is included in John Mollard’s 1802 cookbook The Art of Cookery Made Easy and Refined. Within the recipe, it suggests cutting onions into 1/2 inch rings, dipping them into a batter made of flour, cream, salt, pepper, and Parmesan cheese then deep-frying them in boiling lard. It also recommends serving them with a sauce made of melted butter and mustard. A recipe for onions that are dipped in milk then dredged in flour and deep-fried appeared in a 1933 advertisement for Crisco in The New York Times Magazine.

One claimant to the invention of the onion ring is the Kirby’s Pig Stand restaurant chain, founded in Oak Cliff, Texas in the early 1920s. The once-thriving chain, whose heyday in the 1940s saw over 100 locations across the United States, also claims to be the originator of Texas toast.

A Dallas entrepreneur named Jessie G. Kirby built the first Pig Stand along the Dallas-Fort Worth Highway in October 1921. It was a roadside barbecue restaurant unlike any other: Its patrons could drive up, eat and leave, all without budging from their automobiles. (“People with cars are so lazy,” Kirby explained, “they don’t want to get out of them.”) Kirby lured these car-attached customers with great fanfare and spectacle. When a customer pulled into the Pig Stand parking lot, teenage boys in white shirts and black bow ties jogged over to his car, hopped up onto the running board—sometimes before the driver had even pulled into a parking space—and took his order. (This daredevilry won the servers a nickname: carhops.) Soon, the Pig Stand drive-ins replaced the carhops with attractive young girls on roller skates, but the basic formula was the same: good-looking young people, tasty food, speedy service and auto-based convenience.

That first Pig Stand was a hit with hungry drivers, and soon it became a chain. (The slogan: “America’s Motor Lunch.”) Kirby and his partners made one of the first franchising arrangements in restaurant history, and Pig Stands began cropping up everywhere. By 1934, there were more than 130 Pig Stands in nine states. (Most were in California and Florida.) Meanwhile, the chain kept innovating. Many people say that California’s Pig Stand No. 21 became the first drive through restaurant in the world in 1931, and food historians believe that Pig Stand cooks invented deep-fried onion rings, chicken-fried steak sandwiches and a regional speciality known as Texas Toast.

But wartime gasoline and food rationing hit the Pig Stands hard, and after the war they struggled to compete with newer, flashier drive-ins.

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Rick Oberdorfer, longtime president of Thompson Unlimited’s board of directors, and veteran directors Don Macdonald and Manisha Pandya all resigning as of Jan. 1

Three  veteran members of the board of directors of Thompson Unlimited (TU) submitted their resignations to Mayor Tim Johnston after a board meeting July 29, including Rick Oberdorfer, longtime president of TU. Oberdorfer, Don Macdonald and Manisha Pandya have sat on the board since the economic development corportation was founded. Their resignations are contained in an Aug. 5 letter to Johnston, which was released a public document by the city Sept. 22. The letter was received by the city Aug. 7.

While the resignations were intended to take effect when received an approved by council resolution, Johnston told a regular meeting of city council Monday night that he had spoken to all three after receiving the letter and asked them to stay on until Jan. 1, giving a newly-elected council, which takes office at noon Oct. 23, a chance to get under way before a change of such magnitude.

In their Aug. 5 letter, Oberdorfer, Macdonald and Pandya write: “The members all feel that it it is time to give others the opportunity to participate in this board.” They go on to say in the two-paragraph letter: “It has been a great learning and growing experience and we will all miss working with Thompson Unlimited.”

Johnston, who is not seeking re-election Oct. 22, is the City of Thompson’s external committee appointment to the Thompson Unlimited board of directors.

On Dec. 31 each year, through the recommendation of the legislative and intergovernmental affairs committee and approved by resolution, council appoints a member of council to external committees for the following year. The role of the committee representatives to external committees are to represent city council on the committee; if necessary, to seek clarification from council of its position with respect to the committee; and to report to council on activities and decisions originating from committee meetings.

Johnston noted Gord Wakeling, interim general manager of Thompson Unlimited, had also offered his resignation. Wakeling recently sold his house in Thompson and moved to Winnipeg, but at Johnston’s request is remaining on in the post on a contract basis until Jan. 1, the mayor told council. In fact, Wakeling’s job at Thompson Unlimited was advertised last summer, resulting in a short list of several candidates. That hiring has now been postponed until the new council assumes office next month.

Before he retired last year, Wakeling had served  for 21 years as chief executive officer of the Communities Economic Development Fund (CEDF) here, the only provincial Crown corporation headquarted in Northern Manitoba. Wakeling joined Thompson Unlimited as interim general manager last December after the resignation of development co-ordinator Betty Landego – one of two employees at that time, along with Roxie Binns, who worked half-time but left the position for health reasons and moved to Winnipeg.

Mark Matiasek, who had been general manager of Thompson Unlimited since February 2008, was let go when his contract expired late in 2012. Thompson Unlimited’s budget for 2012 projected revenues of $354,900 – $250,000 of which was the annual operating grant from Vale – and projected expenditures of $449,950 for a deficit to be funded from its reserve of $95,050. The budgeted amount for wages and benefits in 2012 was $190,000 or approximately 42 per cent of the total expenses. Matiasek teaches sociology as an adjunct professor in the Business Administration program here at the University College of the North now.

Oberdorfer owns the A&W franchise on Thompson Drive North.  Pandya is a chartered accountant and partner with Kendall & Pandya.  Macdonald, who is making a run for a trustee’s seat in the Oct. 22 municipal election, is fisheries manager for the Northeastern Region here in the  Fisheries Branch of the Water Stewardship Division of Manitoba Conservation and Water Stewardship.

Other members of the board of directors of Thompson Unlimited include Manfred Boehm, of Winnipeg,  who operates Boehm Management Ltd. and Boehm Hotel Corporation, and owns through companaies controlled by him both the  77-room Burntwood Hotel and  45-room Thompson Inn, both of which are for sale and listed with Colliers. Asking price for the Thompson Inn, or TI as it also known as, is $2.5 million. Both hotels also house beer vendors. Boehm, and his business parner, Ted Bloomer, also own the historic Ramada Marlborough hotel in downtown Winnipeg.

Rounding out the board of directors are Jim Beardy, director of community and technical services for the Keewatin Tribal Council (KTC); Steve Spuzak and Kevin White.

Thompson Unlimited found itself embroiled in controversy last year after Oberdorfer, in his official capacity, based on “input from three business owners,” who remained unidentified, wrote a three-page letter to Johnston and city council dated Aug. 8, 2013, outlining what he describes as “to follow are concerns and suggestions.” The letter became a public document on Sept. 9, 2013 when it was officially received as correspondence during a regular council meeting.

Essentially, many of the 15 points in the letter raised downtown issues that were widely perceived to be a racist attack on the local aboriginal community. The situation became so heated the full board, including Oberdorfer, signed a letter to the editor, published in the Thompson Citizen Sept. 18, 2013, saying, “First and foremost, we truly regret any distress this may have caused to the people and organizations of our region.” The board stressed that the letter “read  into the minutes of the Sep. 9 meeting of mayor and council and which reflected comments that were provided to Thompson Unlimited. These comments in no way represented the views or opinions of Thompson Unlimited, its staff, the board of directors or its chair.” It ended its letter to the newspaper by saying, “Again, we accept responsibility for the way in which the results were presented and we truly regret any undue offense it may have given. We will take steps to ensure that our actions in the future will be more considerate and mindful of others.”

Thompson Unlimited, the city’s economic development corporation, was established in 2003 with $2.5 million in funding over 10 years, first by Inco and later Vale, to assist with diversifying the economy in Thompson for the post-mining era. It did business until 2005 as Thompson Community Development Corporation, which remains its legal name to his day.

Thompson Unlimited’s funding was slashed in January 2013 by 80 per cent – or $2 million – to $500,000 over four years under a new five-year municipal tax and funding agreement with Vale Canada Limited for Jan. 1, 2013 through Dec. 31, 2017, which replaced an expired eight-year agreement between Vale, City of Thompson, School District of Mystery Lake and Local Government District (LGD) of Mystery Lake.

Thompson Unlimited got about 70.44 per cent of its total indirect funding through Vale in 2012. Last year it was to receive $250,000; followed by $100,000 this year; $100,000 again next year; and a final $50,000 in 2016. Technically, Vale earmarks the money for economic development and provides it to the City of Thompson; it does not directly hand over the money to Thompson Unlimited.